Reviving the Vines: Mountain-Made Wines Hit the Market

CAMPTONVILLE — On Monday, Camptonville winemaker George Doolan announced the first commercial release from Doolan Wines — three locally sourced and processed wines. The release includes two Riesling white wine vintages: a filtered 2020 and an unfiltered 2021, both ideal for summer. Doolan describes the 2020 filtered vintage as “ethereal,” with a light and sweet character, while the unfiltered 2021 offers more full-bodied qualities, featuring notes of gooseberry and beeswax. Additionally, a 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon is available, which Doolan characterizes as an “old-school” earthy powerhouse rich in tannins that mellow over time.

Doolan’s journey to winemaking was unconventional. Originally from South Freeport, Maine, he discovered an opportunity to try his hand at the craft in Washington state, somewhat on a whim, after a bout with Lyme disease interrupted his college studies. The experience ignited his passion, blending his interests in history, science, art, and outdoor work. He pursued formal education in enology at Walla Walla Community College and later at Cal Poly in San Luis Obispo. After apprenticing with renowned winemakers around the world, a glass of 1993 Oregon House Cabernet inspired him to focus on northern California.

The grapes for this release were all grown at Renaissance Vineyard, a prized Oregon House establishment that had fallen into disuse before a recent revival of some of its slopes. Doolan first visited Oregon House six years ago in search of celebrated winemaker Gideon Beinstock, a long-time producer of Renaissance wines. Although Beinstock no longer worked at the property, Doolan connected with Aaron and Cara Mockrish, a couple who had secured a lease on Renaissance vines. Under their guidance, Doolan harvested the Riesling grapes for his 2020 vintage, continuing his apprenticeship through 2021 in exchange for fruit. In the following years, the Mockrishes sublet vines for Doolan to harvest independently.

Although the wines released Monday are sourced from Oregon House, Doolan is already planning future releases from several other local vineyards, including the Camptonville vineyard and winery, which serves as his base of operations. He has been diligently restoring the Sangiovese vines on the property, many of which had perished after being abandoned and unwatered for several years. Despite such challenges, enough vines remain in the two-acre field for Doolan to anticipate releasing a wine from Camptonville grapes as early as this fall.

Growing grapes in the mountains presents unique challenges, and in Camptonville, Doolan’s efforts began with removing dead vines. Many plants had succumbed to a common trunk disease, and drainage of rainwater on the steeper slopes exacerbated the problem. Predators also pose a constant threat; although the vines are fenced to deter bears and other animals, birds frequently flock to feed on the grapes. “The birds here are really intense... in Napa, you wouldn’t have to put up bird nets to protect your crop,” Doolan explains. With most obstacles now under control and irrigation issues soon to be resolved, he plans to plant more vines next year.

Beyond winemaking, Doolan has been experimenting with cider production using apples sourced from local areas, including as far east as Goodyears Bar. He describes the region as a treasure trove of unique and rare apple varieties, a legacy of its long farming history. Doolan anticipates releasing two ciders soon, which will be priced more accessibly than his wines.

After moving his operation from Oregon House, all of Doolan’s wines are now processed at his Camptonville facility, located up a long dirt driveway off Mountain House Road. The facility, originally built as part of the now-defunct Tryphon Winery, is where Doolan presses, ages, and bottles. He embraces a natural winemaking approach, utilizing traditional techniques such as foot stomping and spontaneous fermentation without added yeast. Such methods, he believes, allow the “terroir”—the unique environmental characteristics like soil and climate—to shine through in the wine. The space is filled with barrels of aging wine, now nearly obscured by bottles being prepared for shipment across the country.

Doolan’s wines are available for purchase at www.doolanwines.com, with the Riesling vintages priced at $44 and the Cabernet at $78. Customers can pick up their orders directly from the winery, and free shipping is offered to Lost Sierra residents or anyone in a 50-mile radius. Doolan plans to begin shipping out-of-state orders in the fall when cooler weather is more conducive to wine delivery. Visitors to his website can also sign up for an email newsletter to receive updates on new releases, which he expects to offer bi-annually.